Highway to Helsinki & HJK
Helsinki is a cool city. There is art everywhere, murals, unique architecture, it has effortless chic. Despite having no religious inclinations, you cannot miss out on the Temppeliaukio Church, carved out of rock, like a Lutheran Braga FC. The people are relaxed, stylish, and almost painfully friendly and polite. It's easy to see why this tops so many of the Happiest places to live ratings, and they are even aiming to be carbon neutral by 2035.
So the city and quality of life is amazing, but what about the most important part, the football? Where better to start then with the biggest club in the country, Helsingin Jalkapalloklubi, thankfully, for me as a non Finnish speaker, better known as HJK. Finland and Sweden have had a long and complicated geopolitical history, and HJK have represented their Finnish roots with pride, the kit based on the Fennoman Movement ("We are not Swedes, We do not want to be Russians,So let's be Finns"). Their main rivals are city neighbours, HIFK, who were the club for the Swedish speaking community in Helsinki. HJK treasure their history, the club badge originally designed in 1913 has barely changed in over a hundred years. The family feel goes right through the club, as current CEO, and Crystal Palace legend, Aki Riihilahti, started and ended his playing career at HJK.
It's the first ever National Football Day in Finland and in the shadow of the Olympic stadium, it's a peaceful pre match, families milling around, an ice cream stand doing a roaring trade. All very Finland. There is also a terrifying mascot, rosy cheeks, flat cap and a vacant look in it's eyes. In keeping with the chic vibe, the club shop is stocked with what looks more like haute couture then the standard fare. HelGoods are responsible for this, fusing their creative culture with the HJK colours, all with considerations for sustainability.
The Bolt Arena is a strange stadium, opened at the turn of the millennium. It somehow feels both big and intimate, with curves and curvas in all the right places, with a nice view of the Olympic tower looming over. In keeping with Finland, it's architecturally stunning. The word is Teemu Pukki is in town, who started his career at today's opponents, KTP, and spent a very successful season with HJK. He was presented with a very nice looking gold card. Alongside him, ahead of meeting up with the national team, is the coolest footballer in the world, and professional beer drinker, Joel Pohjanpalo of Venezia. These two are leading the Finnish renaissance.
It's quiet in the ground with five minutes until kick off in this Veikkausliiga clash, when the small number of away fans start chanting. Then, out of nowhere, the booming drums from the vocal HJK support. All of a sudden, its all flags and banners, a combination of English support and Italian ultras, it's wonderful chaos. One flag stands out, a portrait of Fredrik Wathen, who founded the club in 1907, another nod to the heritage. The game begins at a frenetic back and forth pace, with skilful passes and pressing. HJK number 14, Matti Peltola stands out, poised in possession, always looking forward, and can play at centre back or midfield, a bright hope for the national team.
HJK start to take control as the half goes, with no sign of frustration from the support as the opening doesn't come. The second half continues the way the first half ended, and it's all for the home team, who nearly get their goal, but the KTP keeper palmed it off the line with flags obscuring vision. A penalty on the hour, up steps Bojan Radulovic...goal. Jubilation among the loyal fans. The former Brighton player scores calmly. Radus on fire na na na to the tune of Freed From Desire. The toilet walls are covered in ultra stickers, but one stands out, The Pizza Connection and a picture of Ray Winstone, intriguing.
It should be two, but in the last few minutes of the game, there is a lovely bit of time wasting from the ball boy, as the home side are under pressure. Four minutes added on, and no sign of anxiety in the stands or from the players. Full time and the whistle closes out an entertaining match. The players come to the Klubipaaty to applaud the most vocal, there is clearly a connection here, as Freed From Desire is once again belted out by the crowd.
The sun doesn't go down until late in this part of the world, and it's still bright at full time, as is the future of football here. Finland is often overlooked as a football destination, but if you want passion, history, atmosphere and skill, during the summer no less, then Helsinki is the place, and where better than HJK, the famous blue and white.
