Basque-street Boys
Bilbao is a city of contrasts, it oozes progress, industrial creativity, urbanism, but also has deep rooted history on every corner. Change. One thing stays the same. The tradition of Athletic Club, fiercely Basque. A proud city and region, a taxi driver explains how the Basque language is taught in schools since Franco outlawed it. Athletic Club is an extension of this pride. Great players have been produced here, Llorente, Pichichi, Laporte to name a few. It's a unique city, like no other in Spain, because it almost isn't Spanish.
Walking through the city, the architecture blows the mind. The Azkuna Zentroa to the Norman Foster designed metro, with the Fosterito glass arches to enter. It becomes immediately obvious that this is a one club city. Red and white flags everywhere, cars, pubs, shops. Athletic, note the English spelling, have a fierce basque only policy for players, but not managers.
Some of the great names to have taken the reigns include Marcelo Bielsa, Howard Kendall and Fred Pentland, where the well followed ex-pat supporters club take their name from. President of the Mr Pentland Club, Alvaro De La Fuente explains why the club is so popular amongst British football fans. "The UK is the place where old school soccer is most cared for, and many romantics of this sport live here. Therefore, it was not a coincidence that we attracted the attention of many of them. They see Mr Pentland Club as a way of feeling closer to Athletic and its values but living outside Bilbao. And we put all our effort to ensure this is the case! We have followers from all around the UK. There are members from Wales, Scotland, England. Few ofthem also from Ireland. And many Basques living in the UK. It is a very powerful and diverse family"
Alvaro offers some of his must see places in and around Bilbao. "San Mames, for sure. That is non negotiable. [Thanks Alvaro, that's coming]. Bilbao is easy to get around and visit in a weekend. Most places are around the river and close to each other. Best plan is to take the river from San Mames and walk all the way to Casco Viejo. You will be able to enjoy delicious pintxos almost everywhere".
Nothing says pre match atmosphere more than a trip to the Guggenheim. Another architectural wonder, it is packed with contemporary art from Miro, Rothko and various other works you can claim to understand. You can tell it's matchday by the number of Celta Vigo fans milling around, a wonderful dichotomy of culture, Art Gallery (a).
It's time to go to San Mames, the cathedral, like a spaceship dropped into the centre of town, possibly the only stadium redeveloped that worked.
Pre game Athletic and Vigo fans mixing, some greeting each other like long lost friends. Once inside, wow. There are bigger stadiums, but the sheer scale, climbing to the top, the only other things to see are the blue skies, red seats and a hint of the Basque hills. The arguments between old against new, imperfect vs perfect, creaking vs gleaming is common, but this ground is incredible. Alvaro echoes this. "The old one was a classic English cottage and people were really close to the players. So many great memories at the old San Mames. It was a sad moment when we said goodbye in 2013. But the new one is first-class. It’s much more accessible for everyone, fits very well in the city as it has that modern shape mixed with traditions. I love the stand for young people behind the goal".
Athletic Club need a win to push for Europe. The big news is Celta talisman and corner kick legend Aspas is injured. The Galicians have made an 800 mile round trip journey. Pre match some wooden percussion is played in the north stand then the anthem, scarves and ribbons flowing and flying, it truly is rousing stuff. What is it about Athletic Club that is so special. "It is all about being very different from other clubs. The philosophy makes Athletic a unique club. We are proud of that as we understand football in a different way. The academy is in the centre, and we compete at the highest level. That keeps the attention of many people worldwide. It’s just amazing" eulogises Alvaro.
A few minutes in, Inaki Williams with a lovely headed goal, scarves twirling once more. When in possession, the two Williams and Berenguer are carving Celta apart like a piece of Serrano ham. Vigo have a rare threatening moment, the ball is going straight into the top corner, but Unai Simon says no goal.
Just after half time, Celta equalise, an almost identical goal to the opener. The Galicians are giddy in the far corner of the stadium. The Basque supporters turn up the volume and urge their team, their pride on. And what a goal. Facing way from goal, Berenguer beats 3 players, and mid turn, top corner. Basque in the glory, San Mames is rocking. Iker Muniain is world class, he has dictated the game, every challenge or puzzle, he has the solution. The heartbeat of this team, and this region. Full time and a vital 3 points for the most local of teams in their chase for Europe.
This is a family club in the truest sense. They are not viewed as customers. Referees and opposition are still booed, putas are flying around in anger. It may be one of the biggest clubs in Spain, with one of the largest stadiums, but it has not lost that sense of intimacy and connection with the fans, the socios. The deepest roots in the community, the city of Bilbao feels at once global, but also a close knit neighbourhood. Aupa Athletic, time for Pintxos.
Mr Pentland helps British people to get tickets to San Mames and we are always open to provide advice for anyone traveling to Bilbao. People can reach our in social media (Twitter, Instagram, Facebook), or dropping us a message to info@mrpentland.comhttps://mrpentland.com/
