The magic of Calcio
Venezia Santa Lucia station, a heaving throng of tourists. A Vaporetto to Calcio heaven is waiting. The novelty and excitement of getting a boat to a match is immense. Venice is a city suffering more than most from over tourism, but this is a path less sailed, albeit still rather seasick inducing.
Venezia FC are one of the coolest clubs around, thanks in part, to their unique location, but also down to their hype generating kits, they are dubbed 'the worlds most fashionable club'. The rebrand, not just the kits, but the badge, aesthetics and feel of the organisation, was driven by German designers, Bureau Borsche. Whilst this has vaulted Venezia FC to a new audience, giving it a level of hip and trendsetting, it hasn't been universally popular. The club was formed in 1907 (bar the typical Italian bust and boom), so supporters who have loyally followed the perennial underachievers are angry at the commodification, disregard for history, and 'brandification' of their passion. When the Chief Brand Officer and Media Directors left in February 2023, the most diehard of fans seemed pleased.
En route to the second oldest stadium in Italy (behind Stadio Luigi Ferraris), past a dog riding a Gondola, you arrive at a calm part of the city, with the exception of the Carabinieri tooled up, looking like they expect trouble. Panino and café polished off and it's time to head to the ground. It's a warm spring afternoon, but everywhere is shrouded in a transcendent mist, just adding to the mythical feel of the place. Narrow walkways, almost silent, cats wandering, and finally, the Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo, and what a sight. High up in the Curva, a view across lagoons, the pre match playlist includes The Vaccines, Oasis, and The Smiths. There is an communication from an Ultra group for a toy collection to donate to a good cause. It feels like home.
It's quite the journey for the Brescia fans, but not as far as the home sides Goalkeeper, Jesse Joronen, started at Fulham, with loans at Maidenhead, Accrington Stanley, Lahti in his homeland, then Denmark, onto Brescia, today's opponents, then finally settling at Venezia FC. Freed from desire plays, clearly translates to any language, and the teams are out. Flags waving hypnotically, the Curva seems very diverse and inclusive, chants of 'Brescia Brescia Vaffanculo' alongside intermittent stun grenades. La Serenissima I think not.
For the second half, the fog has descended to envelope this ground, and against the run of play, the Finnish Haaland, Joel Pohjanpalo, breaks the deadlock for the home side. More stun grenades, more flags and the stands are popping. Venezia have the wind behind their sails. Do Gondolas have sails? No need for an answer, as Brescia equalise. The away fans have got what they want, and they are freed from desire. That's all she wrote, and it's back to the boat. CalcioMagia.
What's the first stop on a cultural tour of Rome? Il Colosseo? The Trevi fountain? Nope, the Jose Mourinho mural of course. When the special one joined I Giallorissi, this depiction appeared almost overnight, the coach riding a Vespa with a Roma sticker on the front. In no time at all, rival Lazio fans defaced this precious artefact by adding Maurizo Sarri blowing cigarette smoke over Jose, but it's back, and it is a neoclassical masterpiece. Then of course, a visit to the King of Rome is in order, Il Capitano, Francesco Totti. Another work of art constantly being vandalised by Laziale.
It seems neither the buses or the trams are working on this warm, sleepy Sunday afternoon so the journey to the Olimpico is fraught. But it was worth it. Historically complicated, built during the Mussolini era, it is imposing and grand, with a capacity of over 70,000. It even played host to some other sport the day before, Rugby I think they call it.
Two very thorough searches and ID scrutinised and in. The famous Curva Sud, with its feared ultras, and just next door, the Distinti Sud, where I sat under the impression it wouldn't be as raucous, is still filled with various ultra groups. They always seem to greet each other warmly though, with two kisses on each cheek, which belies their machismo, and shows camaraderie and love. Forza Roma.
The Olimpico is a sell out, no doubt the Jose effect. The Serie A anthem booed, in true Ultra authority defying fashion. Flags and banners obscure vision and wave manically. Sassulo clearly did not read the script, and Roma are 2-0 down in 18 minutes, before I Lupi pull one back. Just before half time Kumbulla sees red, Sassulo penalty for 3-1, the whistles are deafening from some very angry Romanisti who have a strong sense of indignation.
La Joya, Paulo Dybala, the inspiration is on the for second half and wow. Within 5 minutes, first time shot, top corner, the crowd love him. The Curva is a lawless place, I definitely got a contact high from the copious amounts of marijuana in the air. Roma are pulsing, they are riding the wave of the loyal and passionate fans, but the numbers game has caught up and Sassuolo get some breathing room and it's 4-2. Last bit of drama with the final kick of the game, Roma reduce the deficit to 4-3, but not enough tonight. Calcio magica.
AS Roma shot on 35mm film