Two countries, two matches, one day
Two matches, two countries, one day. Can it be done? Well, yes, quite easily, but not without a bump or two in the road. The first bump was provided by Storm Otto. The first named storm of the year offered hurricane-force winds to the north coast of the UK and much of Denmark, closing the Oresund bridge, the very link needed for this mission. That's a problem for later, the first step is to land the plane. The Scandi pilot offered no reassurance with sardonic wit, suggesting we will just meet the threshold of under 50 knots to land. And land we did, just. The next issue was getting off the plane. Too windy for the jetty bridge, the plane recreated turbulence while sat on the tarmac. A good start!
Once finally reaching Copenhagen, it seems everything is roughly £12, or 100 Danish Krone. Train ticket to Malmö, 100 DKK. Bottle of water and a sandwich, 100 DKK. Cup of coffee, 100DKK. At least the train was on time. The carriage was the personification of Hygge; wood, upholstery and texture working to create that modern yet homely feel.
The train glides past stations, Ørestad, Tårnby, all sounding like obscure UEFA Cup teams on channel 5 in the late 90s. The Oresund Bridge, now reopened after Storm Otto, is basically just tracks above the water, nearly 5 miles long crossing the Flinte Channel is quite amazing. It feels isolated in the great expanse of water. No time for too much wonderment, Malmö and Svenska Cupen action awaits. The home team are playing in their winter stadium, the Malmö IP (less catchy, Idrottsplats). It's a gorgeous mix of pale yellows and wood, kind of a Swedish Craven Cottage. The opponents today are Skövde AIK from a division below, and a whopping four hours drive away.
Regular frequenters to the ubiquitous Swedish flatpack merchants will know hotdogs are a staple of the diet. Here is no different, and what a system they have. You queue up, pay, and receive a bun. Then, you go to a large grill to collect your sausage, and then to the condiments table where a world of wonder awaits. Mustard, gherkins, pickles, coleslaw and crispy onions. If foresight defeated hunger, you could always eat the sausage and not the bun, return to the grill to collect another.
The family atmosphere of an early Sunday afternoon cup game took a turn as I walked through a group of balaclava wearing, weed smoking, drum banging ultras. The giveaway that this area is not for the faint hearted, the omnipresent fire brigade watching closely with buckets of sand. The club anthem blares out that sounds like a war chant, scarves and flags up. It's all Malmö, and not long before they make it 1-0, cue flares, flags and drums. 2-0 and the fire brigade are back on duty. The game somehow only finishes 2-0 and the families and balaclava wearing ultras have enjoyed the day in the winter sun. Back to the train, another £12, and back over the bridge.
Brøndby is very much in the industrial part of town, away from the aristocrats of city rivals, FC København. Residential sleepy streets, factories, and then a hulking figure of yellow steel. The stadium is very reminiscent of an old English style ground, four similar stands and closed in, reminds a bit of a Danish Reading FC on the inside.
The Sydsiden, Brøndbys main ultra group are in good numbers, handful of AC Horsens fans in the far corner (distance?), and some of the friendliest stewards in the world, explaining every intricacy of how a football stadium works all offer promise. Brøndby are down in 10th, the relegation play off zone, a long way from their 1998 Champions League run, facing Barcelona and Bayern.
Chants to the tune of KC and the Sunshine Band fill the air and its time for another hot dog. This time the sausage didn't fit in the roll, which is honestly a problem I have never faced before. Some of the ultras are wearing florescent orange jackets, same colour as the stewards, holding up orange cloth. The teams walk out to Van Halen, and Brøndby jump to action.
Initally it's easy to see why the home side are in this position, chance after chance missed, until finally the breakthrough which has the loyal supporters bouncing. Horsens equalise and the mood sours, an inflated condom bobs around the south stand, possibly a metaphor, then 2-1 Horsens and half time.
The second half is breathless, different teams emerge and its 3-2 in no time, beer flying and crowd bouncing, and it's 4-2 as and the match is safe. Last minute the home side score a fifth to make sure. The great Brondby comeback is on for the second half of the season.
