Brit Abroad...Belgrade
If it's good enough for Only Fools and Horses wheeler dealer, Boycie, then it will do for me! Serbia is a deeply complex nation, often understood and still shrouded in a veil of suspicion, both internally and externally. This was encapsulated perfectly within minutes of arrival. A behind the iron curtain style interrogation from a surly hotel clerk asking accusatorially 'when did I get here'? 'How!?'. The truth is much more sedate then what he is imagining. "From Albania on a rickety old propeller plane". Seemingly satisfied, on with the trip.
I have always been sceptical about organised trips, but homefans.net and in particular, local host Andrija, couldn't do enough. In a land that is perhaps suspicious of visitors at first (they soon warm up), having a jovial guide was priceless. Wednesday is derby day, and what a day it is. It all kicks off with a very informative tour of the Rajko Mitic Stadium, which included walking through the infamous tunnel, as well as climbing what felt like a small mountain in steps in +30 degree heat.
Following the behind the scenes access, it's time for game one of the day.
FK Voždovac4 - 1 FK Radnik Surdulica
31st August 2022
FK Voždovac Stadium
Serbian Superliga
The tired old criticism of Lionel Messi et al was could they do it on a wet, Tuesday night in Stoke? Well, the real question is, could he do it on a hot, Wednesday afternoon on top of a shopping centre?
Shopping Mall (a)
This was very hard to actually get in to. Once the dinars were handed over, it was back outside, through a car park and into a designated lift. The shoppers below had no idea, or no cares that a top flight match was taking place on the roof. Remarkably, this 5000 capacity ground, meets all the UEFA requirements, and despite, at points, being 45 metres above ground, can host European competition! The match itself was merely a side show to the novelty factor, but the home side ran out comfortable winners, playing some slick football, and sending the 200+ shoppers/supporters home happy, without needing more retail therapy.
Pre match
The reason why we are all here though, is for the 168th Eternal Derby, possibly the most intense and explosive, in European football. Thankfully, Andrija had secured us tickets in the middle of the main grandstand, no doubt for our safety. On the walk to the stadium, there was a tension in the air, possibly exacerbated by the 4000 Robocop like armed police presence.
FK Partizan 1 - 1 FK Crvena Zvezda
Stadion FK Partizan
Serbian Superliga
It's Partizan vs Red Star, It's The Grobari vs The Delije, it's the Eternal Derby. Words, pictures, videos cannot do this justice. An hour before kick-off, there is a tense and taut atmosphere, but with an incessant noise of drums and activity.
During the warm ups, and decibels already at an ear splitting level, for reasons unbeknownst, Partizans players warmed up in front of the away fans, and vice versa. One comical, but slightly heartbreaking moment came when a group of three Crvena Zvezda were going through some stretches, and completely missed a projectile from the Grobari. It landed perfectly next to them, and a second later, a bang, which followed an almost hilarious level of animated startle. The stun bomb did it's job.
As the game kicked off, the real action was happening in the terraces, as both sets of fans showed up their full pyrotechnic might, often with several flares being launched onto the running track, causing a scramble from the assembled firefighters. The first 15 minutes is all Red Star, and on 26 minutes, the air felt like it was sucked out of the stadium. You could hear a collective grasp from everyone, drums stopped beating, flares stopped fizzing. Golazo! As soon as the ball left Osman Bukaris boot, it was only going one way. The Ghanian had scored a goal that would make Zidane blush. A first time volley, outside the box, in off the post, on an occasion like this. Cue pyro from the Delije.
The second half was all Partizan, something was clearly said by their grizzled manager, and they were playing some very neat football, being dragged towards goal by the ever faithful Grobari! Even Serbia isn't free from the shackles of VAR, and on 56 minutes, the game stops for what feels like an eternity. Penalty check. Tension abound. Given. Bibars Natcho has a chance to level from the spot, shooting towards his home fans. Goal.
There is a game in there somewhere
Time for Partizan to celebrate. The rest of the game was played out in a back and forth mess, swirling and growling, and eventually finished 1 - 1, which was probably the fairest, and safest result for Belgrade. Full time allowed the Red Star GK to sarcastically applaud the Grobari, while the Delije took the opportunity to set fire to some seats, all in a days work. What an experience.
The day after, Andrija, took us back to the scene of such destruction, with an unofficial tour of the stadium, and a chance meeting with the Partizan manager, Gordan Petric, who was only to happy to stop and chat about the game and his love of pizza. After that, followed a tour of some of Belgrades lesser football lights, including the glorious and historic ground of OFK Beograd, shown around by the great Zdravko Jokic, club secretary, former Yugoslavia player, and UEFA referee. None of this would have been possible with Andrija, and Homefans. Hvala ti!
