Brit Abroad...Tirana
Albania is a beautiful, complicated and alluring nation. At the heart of it is Tirana, a city enclosed by mountains lending it an almost claustrophobic feel. It's chaotic and relaxed, dusty and shimmering, ancient and modern, grand mosques sit happily next to orthodox churches. A land of dichotomies.
With most of the capitals more famous teams either playing away, or in the Elbasan Arena far away from Tirana. After attempting to navigate the bus network, I found myself in Kamëz for this evenings match.
KS Kastrioti 0 - 0 KF Erzeni
27th August 2022
Stadiumi Kamëz
Kategoria Superiore
Entrance 500 Lek /£3.50 approxthen 1000 Lek / £7.00 approx
Kamëz is not built for tourists. It is a satellite commuter town much like Reading or St Albans, just more dynamic and disorderly. I actually missed the turning for the stadium at first, as it is so enclosed with housing blocks and other buildings, but once I found the stadium, it was love at first site. Football has a habit of being a microcosm of the country or region it is in, and Kamëz is no different.
After parting with 500 Lek, I realised I was in the wrong stand as a) it was uncovered, and as a pasty man from the UK, this was not ideal, and b) I was with the away ultras, and as a pasty man from the UK, this was not ideal. Exit stage left and part with 1000 Lek to sit in the main stand amongst the more sedate fans, and the VIP's and commentators. The Albanian John Motson was just behind me preparing his microphone and notes. Also, 36p was spent for the ubiquitous newspaper wrapping of sunflower seeds. First few went down a treat until I observed the locals and released de-shelling the salty snack was a crucial step. Within seconds, the seats and ground was covered.
Prematch had no atmosphere, no sanitised playlist of club classics, just the players warming up, and the occasional call to prayer from the mosque, quite literally touching distance. I fear an inaccurate goalkick could quite easily hit an afternoon worshipper. Albania seems to be a very religious nation, and even here, you could see the tough choice people made, choosing one temple or another for this particular Saturday.
The stadium itself is open ended, and has the main stand and a small row of uncovered terracing on the opposite wing, which is overlooked by a small apartment block, with one man getting his football fix for free. As the players come out, they are greeted by very ambitious 'Ole's' and some blue flares from the away fans. Within three minutes, there are calls for a penalty, and already a scrap with the players and technical staff, this is going to be one of those days.
As the game progresses, the technical areas and fourth officials are powerless to stop the two coaches rampaging around trying to make their points heard, like a pair of Conte's after a very strong espresso. There is some serious vitriol in this match, absolutely everything is an injustice of the highest order. After around 20 minutes played, there are what can only be described as rhythmic gunshots in the not too distant area, and absolutely nobody seems remotely bothered. One of the home fans seems completely detached from the action on the pitch. He keeps mockingly repeating the away chants of "Erzeni Erzeni Erzeni" and adding "Puta!" followed by a warm smile to himself at his own wit, in between consuming his own, considerable, weight in sunflower seeds.
The second half flowed much better, with the players showing their technical ability. Some aggro was still allowed to flourish, this time between some the away fans and stewards. I had decided to join the away end with my original ticket, and it was certainly rambunctious. The game itself had no real highlights, and the final whistle bought with it yet more howls of derision. Now time for me to work out how to get back to Tirana, then onwards to Serbia. Mirëmbrëma!