Let it be set in Como

When you write the story of two happy lovers, let the story be set on the banks of Lake Como. 

- Franz Liszt

Stadio Giuseppe Singigaglia from above

Dennis Wise, Cesc Fabregas, George Clooney; the Beauty and the Beast of Como, jarring against the backdrop of opulence and wealth. 

The Stadio Giuseppe Singigaglia, a hulking inconvenience, awkward concrete hemmed in by Il Lago, a flying club and the Novovomum, the Rationalist apartment block. Beauty and the Beast in living form. The Stadio is faded all pastel colours almost ‘Accidentally Wes Anderson’, cracked stands and a cold facade. 

It belongs to Como 1907, the storied team who have been to the top, and the bottom, with bankruptcy, as is the rite of passage for many Calcio teams, threatening their very existence. They are now very much on the up again, flying high in Serie B, under Indonesian owners, Djarum, fronted by outspoken American CEO, Michael Gandler. Recent hire Dennis Wise (yes, that one) takes care of the football side of things, but Gandler very much wants to tap into the luxury lifestyle of Como and its surroundings. Keeping the spirit of the club will be the challenge. 

Matchday and a hum of activity around the ground, with intermittent bangs from stun grenades emanating from the ultras, startling even the most seasoned of fans. The American influence is kicking in, as you can order food directly to your seat in the main stand, and It’s my life by Bon Jovi plays the teams out. 

The game kicks off with the home side vying for automatic promotion to Serie A, with Spezia, trying not to suffer a double relegation to Serie C, but for the fans, it's all Birra, Borghetti and Cafe. At some point it dawns on me that a game is taking place. Views to the right are a hundred or so Spezia fans, clad all in black, dwarfed by the beautiful mountains on a crystal clear day. To the left, the hypnotic flag waving of the Como faithful, royal blue and just a glimpse of hillside villas. Straight ahead, the mesmerising vista of the glistening lake and occasional seaplanes coming into land. Oh, and some football going on down below. 

New Welsh coach, Osain Roberts, has his side playing some great football, with Patrick Cutrone showing his Wolves form, hitting the post twice, before Lucas Da Cunha scores. Bang, more stun grenades from the ultras and delirium. Cutrone makes it 2-0 and It’s my life plays out again. 

The second half continues in the same vein, as Alessandro Gabrielloni makes it 3-0. He is very much the Lombardy Jamie Vardy, having risen through the lower leagues. 4-0 and the scarves are twirling, and the Bon Jovi royalties are stacking up. With five minutes to go, a wayward Spezia clearance is met by a small boy, who plucks it out of the sky and runs with great speed, to rapturous cheers from the crowd. He deserves the match ball for the pace alone. 

The brutality and beauty of Como 1907 is here for all to see, and is encapsulated perfectly in the ultras, the diehard supporters. This is love, not between just two people, but between a loud, devoted and fanatical group, and their team, set on the banks of Lake Como. 









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